Acne can be a frustrating and stubborn skin condition that affects people of all ages. While there is no one-size-fits-all solution to treating acne, there are several ingredients that can help reduce inflammation, unclog pores, and prevent future breakouts. With a huge assortment of anti-acne products out there to choose from, how do you know which is best for you? Many acne treatments differ mainly by their active ingredients. We're breaking down 6 ingredients, from how they work and what concentration they should be to be beneficial. Here's what you need to know.
- Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid that is derived from willow bark. It works by penetrating deep into the pores and dissolving the dead skin cells and excess oil that can cause acne. Salicylic acid also has anti-inflammatory properties that help reduce redness and inflammation.
When incorporating salicylic acid into your skincare routine, look for products that contain a concentration of 0.5-2% such as our BHA+PHA Pore-Tightening Toner. Start by using the product once a day and gradually increase to twice a day if needed.
BHA+PHA Pore-Tightening Toner for R175
How it's beneficial for acne: Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that removes the top layer of dead skin cells. It is able to do this by deeply penetrating the pores, thereby unclogging them.
By unclogging your pores, salicylic acid can reduce the number and size of blackheads. It can also help rid your skin of excess oil, thereby preventing new pimples.
What concentration you should use: As with the benzoyl peroxide, a higher concentration of salicylic acid does not mean it will be more effective. You'll likely see concentrations available ranging from .5% to 5%. A good starting point will be 1% to 2%..
How long it takes to work: You'll see results in one to two weeks.
- Benzoyl Peroxide
Benzoyl peroxide is a topical medication that is used to treat mild to moderate acne. It works by killing the bacteria that cause acne and by unclogging pores. Benzoyl peroxide is available in over-the-counter products at concentrations ranging from 2.5-10%.
When using benzoyl peroxide, start with a low concentration and gradually increase if needed. It is also important to use sunscreen when using benzoyl peroxide, as it can make the skin more sensitive to the sun.
How it's beneficial for acne: Benzoyl peroxide is an over the counter topical medication that reduces the amount of acne-causing bacteria that lives on the skin.
By killing acne-causing bacteria, it can reduce the number of whiteheads and larger pimples, as well as reduce the frequency of breakouts.
What concentration you should use: Less is more in the case of benzoyl peroxide. Using benzoyl peroxide with a concentration of 2-5% should work just as well for facial acne at higher concentrations of 10% or more. Lower concentrations will not be as harsh or drying to the delicate skin on your face.
With that in mind, acne on the chest and back may require higher concentrations of benzoyl peroxide to see results. While a higher strength like 10% may be too much for the face, it can do the trick for pesky acne on the back or other parts of the body.
How long it takes to work: It takes about two weeks or more to start seeing improvement.
- Retinoids
Retinoids are a class of vitamin A derivatives that are used to treat a variety of skin conditions, including acne. They work by increasing cell turnover, which helps unclog pores and prevent the formation of new acne. Retinoids also have anti-inflammatory properties that help reduce redness and inflammation.
Retinoids are available in prescription-strength formulations, such as tretinoin, adapalene, and tazarotene. They can also be found in over-the-counter products, such as retinol. When incorporating retinoids into your skincare routine, start with a low concentration and use it once a day at night.
How it's beneficial for acne: It can increase the skin-cell turnover rate by getting rid of the top layer of dead skin cells, and promoting the growth of new collagen and healthy new skin cells.
Retinol is great for reducing the size and frequency of blackheads, whiteheads, and even deeper painful pimples, due to its skin-cell turnover abilities. Plus, it will improve the overall texture and tone of your skin.
What concentration you should use: As Retinol does come in different forms and strengths, the correct strength and version will be based on your skin tolerance. It is best to start with a gentle Retinol such as Retinyl Palmitate and work your way up to pure Retinol.
But if you get a prescription-strength retinoid from a dermatologist, the concentration will range from 0.025% to 1%, and the right strength for you will be determined by your dermatologist.
How long it takes to work: It takes a longer time for retinoids to work. it will likely take 4 to 6 weeks or more to see results.
- AHAs
Alpha Hydroxy Acids aka AHAs are a group of chemical exfoliants. They remove dead skin cells, prevent the collection of sebum (oil) and prevent bacterial overgrowth. There are different types of AHAs such as:
- Lactic acid
- Mandelic acid
- Glycolic acid
How it's beneficial for acne: By removing dead skin cells and getting rid of excess oil, AHAs can help to unclog pores thereby reducing breakouts.
What concentration you should use: In a cleanser, you should look for 3% to 8% as in our Renewal Facial Cleanser. Concentrations higher in peels and masks should be used with caution since they can cause serious damage if used incorrectly.
Renewal Facial Cleanser from R145
Alternatively, AHAs in a toner, such as our Glycolic Glow toner can be used 2-3x a week to inhibit the buildup of dead skin cells which leads to clogged pores.
How long it takes to work: AHAs work pretty quickly, and you can see improvement in a week or less.
- Sulfur
As a topical acne treatment, sulfur works similarly to benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid. Like other acne ingredients, sulfur has the possibility of causing irritation. However, it’s considered a safer selection for sensitive skin. And when used as a spot treatment, sulfur may also help clear acne breakouts in dry-to-combination skin types.
How it's beneficial for acne: It reduces the frequency of both blackheads and whiteheads. This happens because it removes the top layer of skin cells, which unclogs pores. Additionally, it can decrease the redness and size of pimples.
What concentration you should use: You should opt for a product with a sulfur concentration of 3% to 5% should be used as in our Blemish Serum.
How long it takes to work: Spot treatments can improve the appearance of pimples in just a few days. Using a less concentrated cleanser can take a couple of weeks to show results.
- Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid has several mechanisms of action that make it effective for treating acne. First, it has antibacterial properties that can help to kill the bacteria that cause acne. Second, it has anti-inflammatory properties that can help to reduce redness and swelling associated with acne. Third, it helps to prevent the formation of comedones, which are the small bumps that form when hair follicles become clogged with oil and dead skin cells.
How it's beneficial for acne: The relationship between azelaic acid and acne works like this: Azelaic acid has antibacterial properties that contribute both to its acne-fighting capabilities and its effectiveness at calming the skin and preventing inflammation. This anti-inflammatory benefit is also what makes azelaic acid useful for people with rosacea. Basically, bacteria is the enemy when it comes to acne, and even rosacea in some cases. Overgrowth of bacteria or yeast in the pores contributes to acne. Azelaic acid reduces these organisms on the skin, and calms inflammation, redness, and swelling.
In addition to reducing acne-causing bacteria, azelaic acid has gentle exfoliating properties that can help remove dead skin cells on the very outer layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, leading to a smoother and brighter complexion. Plus, regular exfoliation–which can unclog your pores—may make breakouts less likely. Glycolic acid and salicylic acid are other exfoliants commonly recommended for acne-prone skin, but they’re harsher and more likely to lead to irritation and flakes than azelaic acid.
What concentration you should use: Concentrations of 15% and 20% Azelaic Acid have shown to be effective in treating acne.
How long it takes to work: For treating acne, it can take 4-6 weeks, but for pigmentation, you should be able to see a difference withing a week.
In conclusion, acne can be a frustrating and stubborn skin condition, but there are several ingredients that can help reduce inflammation, unclog pores, and prevent future breakouts. When incorporating these ingredients into your skincare routine, start with a low concentration and gradually increase if needed. It is also important to use sunscreen when using acne-fighting ingredients, as they can make the skin more sensitive to the sun. With patience and consistency, you can achieve clearer and healthier-looking skin.